Why did we choose to go to Kashmir, you ask? Why go to a state where there are more military police than civilians? Many thought it was a bad idea. Many (my mother) didn't realize what a bad idea it was. My friend Renuka who used to live there as a child has not been back since the 80's because it is no longer safe and not the same as she remembers. The state is part of the never-ending border fight between India and Pakistan. Currently, India is in charge, but only because of the massive military presence there.
The reasons we went are many. We hadn't been "trekking" (hiking) in India yet, and we wanted to see some mountains and do some of that fancy "sahib-style" camping we had read about where you backpack to remote areas with guides and horses so you don't have to carry stuff and your kids on your back. When we contacted a friend of ours who owns a trekking company, Mr. Nazir Rah, he said the only place we could go at this time of year that wasn't too hot or rainy was Kashmir. "Is it safe to go there?" we asked. "Of course! Things are very safe these days. There are thousands of tourists there from all over the world there every day." We hoped he was right.
So after some deliberation, we eventually ended up booking the tickets and going. After packing up everything we own in Delhi and staying in a guest house for a few nights, we were ready for a vacation with some cooler weather and lots of relaxation. We flew to Srinagar in a tiny plane, and almost immediately ran into some friends from Delhi--some journalists with their daughter who was one of my Musikgarten students. That made us feel better about being there. The next thing we noticed didn't make us feel all that safe: all the military people with camouflage and machine guns guarding every doorway and street.
We were met outside the airport by Mr. Rah's cousin-brother who spoke excellent English and took us to Dal Lake where our houseboat was. At the dock on Dal Lake there were dozens of shikara boats that take tourists to one of hundreds of houseboats lining the lake.
Apparently the British fell in love with Srinagar and wanted to buy land and build; when they were denied property, they built houseboats instead.
The shikara boats are amazing. All decked out with reclining seats and lots of cushions so you can lay out luxuriously while you glide through the water. Gorgeous.
Enjoying the calmness of it all.
Our strong and kind shikara driver was kind enough to let our boys try their hand at rowing. As Rich and I discovered later, steering one of these boats is no small feat!
As if the quiet ride lounging on cushions isn't luxurious enough, vendors stop by your boat every once in a while and offer you beautiful jewelry, scarves, leather, and snacks you can peruse at will, and they weren't nearly as pushy as the hawkers we have encountered in other tourist traps.
Along the lake there are shops selling scarves and clothing. It's like a little city with waterways and sometimes lots of traffic on the lake.
And a few houseboats reminding us of our home that awaits us in America . . .
Ahhh . . . No wonder Kashmir is legendary!
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